Did Sherpa Brothers Set New Everest Record?

According to the April 11, 2009 online edition of the Seattle Times:


"Three Sherpa brothers hoping to set a new record by spending 24 hours at the top of the world set out Sunday for the summit of Mount Everest.

The trio - Pemba Dorje, 31; Nima Gyalzen, 23; and Phurba Tenzing, 20 - boarded a plane in Katmandu, Nepal's capital, and flew to a small airport on the foothills of Everest. They were expected to trek to the base camp with their team, climbing gear and supplies in the next few days.

The brothers plan to reach the 29,035-foot (8,850-meter) summit in May and spend 24 hours at the top, known as "the death zone" because of the extreme weather. Most climbers linger there for only a few minutes, just long enough to take a photograph.

Several friends and supporters of the brothers gathered at the airport to wish them success.

"It is going to be difficult, but we are confident because all of us have reached the Everest summit many times and we are all experienced climbers on the mountain," Dorje told reporters at the airport.

At the summit, they will face extreme cold weather, low air pressure, brain-starving low levels of oxygen, high winds and blizzard conditions.

The last record was set by Babu Chhiri, who spent 21 hours at the summit in 1999. A veteran mountaineer, he died in 2001 during an expedition

The brothers said they planned to pray, take notes of the changing temperatures and the effect they have on human bodies.

Dorje holds the record for the fastest climb of the world's highest mountain, sprinting from a base camp to the summit in just eight hours 10 minutes.

Sherpa tribesmen were mostly yak herders and traders living in the Himalayas until Nepal opened its borders to tourism in 1950. Their stamina and knowledge of the mountains makes them expert guides and porters.

They typically have no family name and are called after the days of the week they are born."


Did they succeed?

Yes and no.

The May 27, 2009 online edition of the NepalMountainNews unfortunately reported:


"Three Sherpa brothers who were eying to set a new world record by staying atop Mt. Everest for 24 hours have abandoned the effort and have returned from Camp 2, their expedition organizer said Tuesday.

Speed climber Pemba Dorje Sherpa, who set the record for the fastest climb of the 8,848-meter peak on May 21, 2004 when he clocked 8 hours and 10 minutes, returned from Camp 2, located at 6,600 meters, on Monday owing to bad weather, said Dambar Parajuli, Chief Executive Officer of Prestige Adventure that organized the expedition.

“They have abandoned the expedition,” Parajuli told myrepublica.com.

Pemba, 31, was vying to stay atop the peak for a full day without supplementary oxygen. He was accompanied by his younger brothers Nima Gyalzen, 23, and Phurba Tenzing, 20, who were also trying to stay the same duration atop the peak, but with supplementary oxygen.

All of them have returned to the Base Camp.

The record for most time atop the peak is currently held by Babu Chiri Sherpa, who spent 20 hours on top in 1999. Babu Chiri died in 2001 in an accident along the slopes of Mt. Everest.

The only new record set this climbing season was by Appa Sherpa, 49, who climbed the peak for the 19th time, breaking his own world record of 18 ascents."


So, "No", they did not succeed in their specific goal.

But, "Yes", they succeeded in many other ways.

- They inspired me, and I hope, you as well.

- They brought publicity to the Sherpas, long overlooked as mere "hired help" in the lore of Mount Everest climbs. The Sherpa's employers used to get all the glory.

- These three young men embarrassed me. The next time I wake up for work and moan about wishing I could sleep longer, I'll think about how my concern paled in comparison to the dangerous concerns these men face on every climb.

- In researching this attempt, I came across another outstanding group of Sherpa climbers. What sets this group apart is that they are all females. I quote from Dawa Yangzi, member of 2000 Nepali Sherpa Women's Climbing Team: "When we were young, my friends and I were in awe of Pasang Lhamu. I remember talking about how it would be great to get a chance to go to Everest. Some friends said women couldn't do it. I insisted that women could." I encourage you to read this account in full. click here to read more

Our world has its problems. Take the time to dream, and put those dreams into action. The Sherpas did. I honor them.